Neal Martin in Vinous 94 pt 8-2020: The 2015 Côtes de Jura Les Chalasses Veilles Vignes comes from a parcel of Chardonnay planted in 1902 on grey marl soils. It sees a shorter élevage than his other cuvées, but still spends a respectable 3 years in wood. Glistening straw in hue, it has a striking nose, the key being an oxidative bent that does not occlude other aromas: hazelnut, damp straw, Clementine and autumn bonfire, all beautifully defined and intense. The palate continues the discrete oxidative theme, nutty and smoky, fresh as a daisy with a killer line of acidity. There is intensity here, yet such is the tension and razor-sharp dry finish that you beg for a second sip. This 2015 Les Chalasses is beginning to show what it is capable of and yet it is only on its first chapter, ergo whilst you could drink this now, but personally, I would be inclined to cellar for 20 years.

Ce ne sont plus des chardonnays, ce sont de grands blancs Jurassiens d’élevage long, partis pour une encore plus longue vie en bouteille ! … Au sommet, Les Chalasses Vieilles Vignes et Les Varrons Rouchamps brilles par leur présence, leur complexité et leur profondeur de goût.

The 2019 Les Chalasses Marnes Bleues has a subtle nose and feels shy and elegant, not showing at all the heat from the vintage. It comes through as balanced, with a pungent palate, and it's powerful, with concentration and ripeness but with freshness that makes it balanced. Other than the rare Les Vignes de Mon Père, this is year in, year out Ganevat's finest Savagnin ouillé, now matured for four years before bottling.