Weingut Wolf

Our family winery Weingut Wolf is based in the village of Grosskarlbach (in the Mittelhaardt region of the Pfalz in southwest Germany). Five generations before me were already growing grapes, alongside potatoes and other crops. My father Kurt was the first of the family to focus on the production of quality wine, bottling under his own label. Although until now a big percentage has been sold in bulk. We cultivate a total of 14 ha vineyards in the villages Grosskarlbach and Laumersheim. A large percentage of our vineyards are classified as Grosse Lage (Grand Cru) or 1. Lage (Premier Cru) in the VDP classification (Verband deutscher Prädikatsweingüter). That shows the huge potential of our soil/terroir. A very warm microclimate plus super chalky soils covered by a layer of lime and mineral rich loess topsoil.

The Pfalz is the second warmest wine region in Germany. It is warm enough to grow figs or even kiwis, though we decided to plant lots of different grape varieties on our land. Mainly Riesling, Pinot Blanc/Gris (Weissburgunder/Grauburgunder), Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc for white and Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder) for red. Alongside our dry and off dry still wines, we produce sparkling wine (Sekt) following the champagne method. Since 2018 we work biodynamically and we are looking forward being certified Demeter in 2021.

As the first generation in our family who had the chance to travel, I spent multiple years abroad to learn and widen my horizons. The main influence on my thinking was without a doubt, French wine culture. Starting in 2012 at Domaine de L’Horizon in Calce in the south of France, inhaling the spirit of wine-obsessed Thomas Teibert, who became “Découverte de l’année” in 2010 as the first and only German in the history of the Revue du Vin de France. As a salesman for highly demanded Stockinger oak barrels, daily tasting and discussing became a ritual. The foundation was laid for my French skills as for my own passion for wine.

Two important details for my future. The glass became my professor. Infected from the French wine virus I began my studies for viticulture and oenology at University Geisenheim, quickly gaining the nickname Monsieur Loup and having the assertiveness to question the highly respected degree program. With Klaus-Peter Keller from Weingut Keller in Flörsheim-Dalsheim (Rheinhessen) I had found my next spiritual father in 2013. ”Only tremendous effort and presence in your vineyards can give you the ultimate grapes to make something special”. I remember vividly ‘KP’ quoting his spiritual father Monsieur Charles Rousseau saying: If you think you understood your vineyard, you do not understand anything. I found great direction from understanding this advice, as well as many other influential words along the way and of course from drinking world’s finest wines and champagnes on a daily base. Yum!

Wanting to experience a non-German epic Riesling producer, my next apprenticeship followed at Domaine Ostertag. Being fascinated from André’s spirit and approach many conversations followed, especially about the topic of biodynamic winemaking. Ludwig Bindernagel’s winery Les Chais du Vieux Bourg in Poligny, the heart of the Jura region was the next chapter on my path. As a former architect, Ludwig incarnated a deviant and headstrong yet extremely sensitive character regarding his winemaking and general attitude towards life. Hand-destemming and no tractors used for example to speak about his philosophy of “high spirit, low tech” impressed me sustainably.

Quite a contrast followed working for Domaine Didier Dagueneau in Saint-Andelain in the Loire valley. Utmost precision, hospital clean vinification and high-tech machinery cannot be a bad thing when you get to taste those holy wines. Furthermore, the Dagueneau family introduced me widely into the range of the Loire wines. In 2015 and 2016 I changed my gumboots for sneakers to work for the small and independent wine merchant The Sampler, based in central London. First as an assistant for the wine buying team under the head of Christina Holzer and then on the shop floor as an assistant manager on the side of Arthur Verdin. Working with a selection of 1000+ wines and an impressive number of 80 wines available by the glass (in enomatic machines) raised my world wine knowledge day by day. Especially our “icon wine machine” was a good prof and key when I tasted a rare bottle of Jean-Louis Chave’s Hermitage 1988.

A few month later I found myself at Mauves in the region Saint-Joseph working for the world-famous Domaine Jean-Louis Chave. Probably one of the wineries with the longest tradition in winemaking since 1481 from father to son. For me, the ultimate experience to get answers regarding terroir, vinification or blending. I highly appreciated drinking mature wines backed with the story of the vintage told by Monsieur Chave.